Walking through the narrow streets that run alongside Amer Fort is an experience rich in contrasts: historic architecture, artisan workshops and temples surrounded by greenery. Along this route, after a couple of shops and small shrines, you come across a large haveli that is very reminiscent of an ancient palace.
It does not appear in tourist guides, has no ticket offices or crowds of visitors. Only a plaque from the Rajasthan Department of Archaeology and a couple of stone tombstones, written in uncertain English, bear witness to its identity. The rest is told by its walls: bare, worn, but capable of evoking its ancient splendour.
The first palace of the Kachhwaha dynasty
This residence was used by the Kachhwaha kings of Amber in the 16th and 17th centuries and is considered a significant example of medieval residential architecture.
Built mainly of sandstone and lime, the palace was home to rulers such as Prithviraj Singh I, Bharmmal and Bhagwant Das. Inside, you can still see the audience hall (Diwan-i-Aam), the coronation area (Rajtilak Chatri), the Janana Mahal for the women of the court, and the so-called Balabai Hall, dedicated to the queen.
A peculiarity of tradition dictates that the first marriage of each ruler was celebrated in the Balabai Hall, making this space central to dynastic life.
The Temple of Narsingh
Within the complex, there is also a temple dedicated to Narsingh, one of the incarnations of the god Vishnu. According to inscriptions, it was commissioned by Rani Balabai, wife of King Prithviraj Singh (1503–1527), a devotee of the saint Krishnadas Payhari, founder of the Galta pilgrimage centre.
The saint gave the queen an idol of Narsingh, accompanied by a promise: ‘As long as this image remains here, the Kachhwaha will continue to reign.’
To house it, a marble swing-shaped altar was built, supported by columns carved with the various incarnations of Vishnu: Matsya, Varaha and Buddha. The upper part (toran) depicts Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu, Lakshmi and other deities.
The management of the cult was entrusted to the disciple Parbat Purohit, and even today, festivals such as Narsingh Chaturdashi, Janmashtami and Annakut are celebrated with local participation.
Origins and history of the Kachhwaha
The Kachhwaha belong to a Rajput clan that claims descent from the solar dynasty (Suryavanshi), specifically from Kusha, the son of Rama. According to some chronicles, their ancestors migrated from Kosala to Gwalior and then to Rajasthan in the 11th century.
Over time, they were called by various names, such as Kachhapaghata or Katsawaha, until the name Kachhwaha became established during the reign of Raja Man Singh (16th century). Their political rise was consolidated thanks to alliances with the Mughals, who strengthened their power and prestige.
Bala Bai and the legend of the ‘Saal’
In addition to its political and religious importance, the palace is linked to a popular story featuring Queen Balabai.
According to tradition, one day King Prithviraj Singh, on his way to the Jagdish Ji temple, addressed a group of women, saying, “Bai, do not be afraid, go ahead.” Unbeknownst to him, the queen was among them, and she was deeply hurt by being called “sister”.
Balabai then decided to renounce married life and retired to a secluded part of the palace, leading an ascetic existence. Over time, that very room became a ritual place: every royal couple, after their wedding, spent their wedding night there to receive the blessing of the queen, who had now become a spiritual figure and protector.
A hidden treasure
Today, the palace, just a stone’s throw from Amer Fort, remains off the tourist trail. Its rooms tell of centuries of history, power and religious devotion, but also of legends that have helped to preserve its memory.
The lack of restoration and scant institutional attention make it a quiet place, often ignored, but capable of giving those who enter it a feeling of travelling back in time.
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