Stork bring me food, not a baby

Carved stork bas-relief on the exterior wall of the Aragil restaurant, Victory Park, Yerevan — derived from text description

A stork carved in stone still watches over an empty dining room.

The Aragil — the name means stork in Armenian — stands on the wooded heights of Victory Park in Yerevan, half-concealed by vegetation on the Kanaker hillside and visible from Google Maps under a label no longer accurate. From the terrace, on a clear day, Mount Ararat fills the southern horizon. The building is still there. The kitchen is dark. The chandelier moves when nobody is watching.+

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Victory Park

Historical Context

The Park on the Hill

Victory Park has its roots in the late 1930s, when the Soviet administration decided to plant an artificial forest on the bare Arabkir plateau north of the city and create a green lung for the expanding capital of the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic. The park was formally inaugurated on 29 November 1950, the thirtieth anniversary of the Sovietization of Armenia, on the same day that a seventeen-metre copper statue of Joseph Stalin — sculpted by Sergey Merkurov — was unveiled on a basalt pedestal designed by architect Rafayel Israyelian. Yerevan residents promptly renamed both the park and the surrounding neighbourhood Monument, a name that has never entirely receded. When the cult of personality was officially denounced in 1962, Stalin’s statue was dismantled; five years later, Ara Harutyunyan‘s Mother Armenia — a twenty-two-metre figure in hammered copper — was placed on Israyelian’s pedestal in its stead, where it has stood ever since, sword raised toward the sky.

Throughout the 1950s, the park acquired its infrastructure: the first carousel in 1955–1956, the artificial lake Arevik — modelled on the outline of Lake Sevan, eight and a half metres deep, open for swimming and boating — completed in 1961. It was, for some years, the largest park in Armenia and the primary leisure destination for Yerevan’s population.

Carved stork bas-relief on the exterior wall of the Aragil restaurant, Victory Park, Yerevan
The symbol of the restaurant

The Stork Restaurant, 1959

In 1959, a restaurant opened in the elevated section of the park, set back from the main esplanade on the wooded ridge above the city. Its name was Aragil — the stork —, and it was designed by Rafayel Israyelian, the most prolific architect of mid-twentieth-century Armenia, whose other works in Yerevan included the Victory Monument pedestal, the pediment of Republic Square’s Government Building No. 2, and — his most celebrated project — the Sardarapat Memorial, completed in 1968 to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the Battle of Sardarapat. Born in Tbilisi in 1908 to a family of teachers, Israyelian had studied at the State Academy of Arts of Georgia and later at the Ilya Repin Leningrad Institute before settling in Yerevan in 1936, the year Alexander Tamanyan — the city’s founding urban planner — died. He became the great continuer of the Armenian architectural tradition, described by critics as working “while employing the stylistic principles of medieval as well as vernacular Armenian architecture, re-examining its aesthetic through a functional-constructivist prism.” He died in 1973.

The Aragil was one of his lighter commissions, but it was not a minor one. Its construction used a combination of white felsite and ochre-tuff from Ani — the same ancient quarry city whose stones appear in Armenian monuments across centuries — giving the structure a material rootedness in the local landscape. The stonemason and jeweller Hrach Stepanyan carved the bas-reliefs of storks on the eastern and western exterior walls. The restaurant appeared in the 1963 Armenian film Road to the Circus, already established enough as a landmark to serve as a recognisable backdrop. Israyelian’s grandson later recalled that the architect “never talked about the building, but admired the view over Yerevan and Mount Ararat. Sometimes, when we sat under the arches, he invited us to look at Ararat from the pavilion on the right side, to admire the mountain.”

Live music was performed at Aragil every day. For the citizens of Soviet Yerevan, it served a social function that went beyond the culinary: eating here, locals told us, was a statement of belonging to the upper strata of city society, a performance of status visible from the terrace above the rooftops. Foreign visitors were brought here as a matter of course. The distance from the city centre — too far for a casual evening, requiring a specific commitment — only reinforced its prestige.

Abandoned terrace of the Aragil restaurant overlooking Yerevan from the Kanaker heights
A huge terrace

Architecture and Space

Five Arches, White Stone, a Terrace Facing Ararat

The building is entered through a staircase that ascends to a landing, where visitors were once greeted by a sculptural stork — the restaurant’s emblem, carved by Hrach Stepanyan. The main facade presents five identical arched entrances in white felsite, arranged symmetrically across the front. The arches are not ornamental: they constitute the structural rhythm of the entire composition, and from outside they frame views of the surrounding trees and, beyond them, the city. On the eastern and western walls, the stork bas-reliefs by Stepanyan survive, though degraded. The style sits within what architectural historians categorise as Soviet regional modernism — a tendency that, in Armenia, found its most sophisticated expressions in Israyelian’s fusion of modernist volume with Armenian stone craft and medieval decorative vocabularies.

To the right of the main building, a large terrace opens toward the south, offering what remains one of the most unobstructed panoramas of Yerevan available at mid-elevation: the city spread below, and on clear days the snow-capped cone of Ararat visible across the Turkish border. To the left, a long covered section with roof shade once provided tables for outdoor dining. The building has two levels: a ground floor and a lower floor, partially sunk into the hillside, which appears to have housed the kitchen and service areas.

Dust-covered ground floor interior of the abandoned Aragil restaurant, Yerevan, debris of machinery
Ex-kitchen

Decline and Abandonment

The Aragil closed in the years immediately following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. The wider context was catastrophic for Armenian public institutions: the newly independent republic entered a period of acute economic crisis, compounded by the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict and an energy blockade that left much of Yerevan without heating for years. Across Victory Park, trees were felled for firewood. Areas of the park were sold off to private developers; luxurious private villas now occupy what had been forested sections of the original 110-hectare site.

The specific circumstances of the Aragil’s closure are not documented in any source we could locate. Locals told us during our visit that, during the privatisation wave of the 1990s, a private buyer acquired the restaurant along with several others — spreading his attention too thin to maintain any of them properly — and the Aragil was simply left. Whether this account is accurate cannot be verified, but it is consistent with the documented pattern of institutional collapse and opportunistic private acquisition that characterised Armenian public assets in that period. What is certain is that the building has stood empty for more than three decades.

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Iron door

What We Found

The Staircase and the Landing

Some stairs will guide you to the landing where you will be welcomed by a stork — the bird which, by legend, brings children to their parents. The stork is the symbol of this restaurant, as well as its name.

The Terrace and the Arches

On the right, there is a spacious terrace from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of Yerevan. On the left — a lot of places where people could once drink and eat under the shadow of a roof. Free and easy entrances are everywhere, but personally, I preferred the main one, just a few metres after the arches.

The Ground Floor

Inside, on the ground floor, nothing is left except dust and the debris of some machines. Down on the minus floor, all was dark — lit only by small windows on the side where, presumably, the kitchen once stood.

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Full of stuff that one day was needed

The Lower Level

Small storerooms closed by iron doors, iron tools scattered on the floor, and an iron washbasin in the middle of the room. Some underground corridors link several rooms, and inside one of them, books and documents are left on the floor. A kind of pallet — probably a home for homeless people before, constructed from different layers of blankets superimposed — was hiding in a corner. On the opposite side, another room full of objects and tools: a mirror (time for a mirror selfie, ha), a balance, an oven, plastic and iron small items, a chair, some cups and a kettle. Walking through it all, I kept wondering how this place could have been, years ago, one of the best restaurants in Armenia — imagining people running from one point to another, cooking and serving customers.

The Chandelier

Suddenly, in another room close to me, something was in motion. I went inside and found it: swinging up and down, left and right, there was a chandelier — not there to give light anymore, but to rest, enjoying its last moments under the rays of the sun.

Current Status

As of 2026, the Aragil building remains abandoned and in a state of partial deterioration. It is listed as a historical and cultural monument in the Kanaker-Zeytun district of Yerevan, a designation recorded in the 2004 Armenian government decree on Yerevan heritage monuments. The listing has not, in practice, led to any restoration or consolidation works. Searches for active redevelopment plans, ownership transfers or rehabilitation projects as of 2025–2026 return no results. The site continues to attract urban explorers, photographers and, reportedly, couples who come for the sunset from the terrace. The structure is partially demolished in sections, but the main building with its arched facade and bas-relief storks appears to be standing. No demolition order and no renovation project have been publicly announced.

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Old chandelier

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