Odhi Bawan

Hidden among the dense vegetation of the Aravalli Hills, in the heart of Jaipur’s Nahargarh National Park, stands a palace that few people know about. It does not appear in official tourist guides and is not signposted along the main trails, but it has withstood the elements for over a century. It is Odhi Bhawan, an abandoned hunting lodge that tells a forgotten chapter in the royal history of Rajasthan.

What is Odhi Bhawan

Odhi Bhawan (also called Odhi Ram Sagar or Shikaar Odhi) is a former hunting palace nestled in Nahargarh National Park, in the Aravalli Hills north of Jaipur. The complex is attributed to the reign of Sawai Madho Singh II (1880–1922), known for promoting several shikar-related structures around the city.

A complex of three havelis

The site comprises three havelis: the main building overlooking Ram Sagar Lake and two outposts at higher altitudes, Gopal Bilas and Ganga Bilas, named after the maharajah’s sons. In some local accounts, the main building is also called Lalit Bilas. From above, there is a wide view of the Aravalli range, which is particularly scenic during the monsoon season.

Architecture and state of conservation

The main haveli is a three-storey building with two watchtowers, linear internal corridors and central courtyards. Traces of araish (a glossy lime-based finish typical of Rajasthan) remain on the walls. Today, the building is overgrown with vegetation and shows widespread signs of material deterioration.

From royal hunting to abandonment

When the hunting era ended, the palace was inhabited by a tantrik and his family, who performed rituals and informally took care of some of the rooms. Later, according to local accounts, the Forestry Department ordered the evacuation, and the structure remained empty.

Where it is and how to get there

Odhi Bhawan is located within the Nahargarh Wildlife/Biological Park. Access to the area is officially subject to a permit. Still, in practice, the site can also be reached on foot or by hitchhiking from Akedadoongar, passing through Sisiyawas, without any particular checks. Another option is to rent a scooter and enter through the main entrance of Nahargarh Biological Park. It is advisable to visit the area only during daylight hours, after 5.30 a.m. and before sunset, as the surrounding forest is the natural habitat of leopards and hyenas.

Between superstition and ghost stories

In Rajasthan, as in much of India, popular beliefs and superstition play an important role in the perception of abandoned places. Odhi Bhawan is no exception to these narratives: its isolated location, the dense forest that surrounds it, and the slow decay of its structures have fuelled rumours of mysterious presences.

The inhabitants of nearby villages say they have heard unusual noises coming from the ruins, especially at night, and many avoid approaching the palace after sunset. The fact that for years the residence was inhabited by a tantrik, a priest dedicated to esoteric rituals, has contributed to reinforcing the perception that the site is linked to unsettling energies.

Such stories are not uncommon in India: many colonial buildings or royal residences now in ruins are surrounded by legends of spirits or curses. Rather than true paranormal phenomena, these are often a combination of superstition, fear of the forest and its silence, and the collective memory that links the present to the past of these places.

The sacred inscriptions on the walls

Inside the innermost rooms of Odhi Bhawan, the walls are surprisingly covered with large slabs of white marble engraved with ancient Sanskrit verses. These are not mere decorations, but actual excerpts from sacred Hindu texts, such as the Puranas and the Upanishads.

Some of these verses read:

• “Glory to Rama, eternal victory to Rama”, a mantra invoking the protection of the god Rama against negative forces.

• ‘Dharma protects those who protect Dharma’, engraved as a moral warning and spiritual guide.

• “May all be happy, may all be free from disease”, a universal wish engraved on stone as an act of devotion.

• “From death, lead me to immortality”, an invocation that invokes the human desire for liberation and transcendence.

These inscriptions, probably carved by the tantrik who lived in the palace after it was abandoned, transformed the rooms into a place halfway between a temple and a spiritual hermitage. It is not surprising that the locals, seeing these walls covered with sacred verses, began to regard the building as a mystical place, protected and feared at the same time.

Why is it important

Odhi Bhawan is a rare example of the hunting lodge system of the late 19th/early 20th century in Jaipur, comparable in size and layout to some urban havelis. Its location in a forest setting preserves its original context but complicates conservation and monitoring efforts. Some local reconstructions also cite influences of the “British bungalow style” in the outposts, a sign of the hybrid language of the time.

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