In Kolkata, the former capital of British India, entire neighbourhoods still boast colonial buildings with imposing architecture but in precarious condition. Shovabazar, Bagbazar, Chitpur and the streets around College Street are dotted with buildings that were once symbols of prestige and power, now marked by water damage, peeling walls and exposed beams.
Life goes on
Behind these facades, however, life goes on. In many cases, the residences are not empty: low-income families live there, paying negligible rents, often agreed decades ago and never updated. Some floors have been converted into warehouses, others house improvised shops and markets, where everything is sold: fabrics, brass, utensils, foodstuffs.
Colonial architecture
Among the most significant sites are Laha Bari, Tagore Palace, the house of Jadulal Mullick and old commercial structures such as the one built in 1901 in College Street Market. Here, the architectural charm survives in high vaults, carved balconies and finely carved wooden details, the result of a fusion of colonial elegance and traditional Bengali motifs.
The Babus
These palaces also bear witness to the history of the Babus, a Bengali elite that emerged from interaction with the British between the 18th and 19th centuries. Rich and eccentric, the Babus built villas inspired by London models, organised lavish parties and cultivated extravagant hobbies. Today, however, their homes are largely in ruins, due to a lack of funds and institutional disinterest.
Between poverty and gentrification
The condition of the inhabitants is complex. According to local authorities, many of these buildings fall into the category of “unsafe structures”, with a high risk of collapse during the monsoon season. The families who live there face daily problems of damp, inadequate sanitation and lack of maintenance. Some live in former factories converted into housing, where industrial tracks fixed to the floors are still visible.
The contrast is striking: within spaces that exude history and craftsmanship, life goes on in extremely precarious conditions. Today, the view of the Hooghly River is often obscured by skyscrapers and shopping centres under rapid construction.
Are there any restoration projects?
In some cases, restoration projects have given new life to historic buildings, transforming them into cultural centres, restaurants or art galleries. However, for most structures, time and neglect remain the main enemies. Without a conservation plan shared between the public and private sectors, there is a risk that the city will lose a fundamental part of its architectural and social identity.
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