Rails to nowhere

Half the tracks are buried under sand, and the platforms haven’t seen a train in nearly four decades.

March 26, 2017
Stork bring me food, not a baby

A stork carved in stone still watches over an empty dining room.

February 13, 2017
Steel wagon

In the central Georgian city of Gori, best internationally known as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, there is a largely forgotten fragment of Soviet transport infrastructure quietly disappearing behind the city’s active railway terminal. The contrast is striking. Visitors arriving in Gori usually gravitate toward the monumental Stalin Museum, one of the city’s most recognisable […]

February 4, 2017
Burnt-out relics of the glorious past

Hidden in the wooded landscape of Stojčevac, a recreational area on the outskirts of Sarajevo, stands the burned remains of a structure that local accounts continue to associate with one of the most enigmatic figures of twentieth-century Balkan history: Josip Broz Tito. The expectation surrounding a place connected, even informally, to the former Yugoslav president […]

February 3, 2017
Old traditions in the Armenian mountains

A traveller en route to Dilijan (Դիլիջան), in Armenia’s Tavush province, was offered a lift by a local who became an informal guide. About 20 km from the town and roughly a 30‑minute drive—10 minutes on paved road and 20 minutes up a rough dirt track—they left the car where the ascent became impassable and walked up […]

January 25, 2017
Ruined Mostar

More than three decades after the structural cataclysm of the Yugoslav Wars, the urban fabric of Mostar remains a fragmented palimpsest of conflict. While the internationally funded restoration of the historic Ottoman core draws thousands of transients daily, a parallel city of concrete skeletons and perforated brickwork endures just beyond the tourist perimeter. Mostar, the […]

January 24, 2017
Hansel and Gretel: continuation of a story

On the edge of the road leading out of Villa Estense — a small agricultural comune in the Bassa Padovana, the flat southern strip of the Province of Padua wedged between the Euganean Hills and the river Adige — there is a two-storey house that barely announces itself. Creepers have swallowed much of the façade. […]

January 14, 2017
Hospital, hidden in the wood

Deep within the forested edge of the Lamač district in Bratislava, the concrete shell of the Rázsochy Hospital rises abruptly from the trees. Unlike urban ruins that gradually dissolve into surrounding infrastructure, this structure appears as a full-scale interruption in the landscape — a vast architectural frame left suspended between political eras. Conceived during the […]

January 12, 2017
Tons of concrete and glass in Zagreb

At the southwestern edge of Zagreb, beyond the dense residential districts and modern commercial developments surrounding the city’s newer suburbs, stands one of Croatia’s most remarkable unfinished structures: the abandoned University Hospital in Blato. Seen from the main road entering the capital, the immense concrete frame dominates the surrounding flat landscape with a scale that […]

January 6, 2017
Villa Ca’ Barbaro — 16th Century Renaissance Villa

The villa sits deep in the countryside on the slopes of what was once Monte Buso, now largely destroyed by quarrying and replaced by Lago Azzurro. Villa Ca’ Barbaro is a Renaissance building from the 16th century, located in the municipality of Baone, at the southern edge of the Euganei Hills. In 2016, when I […]

December 19, 2016